My name is Jason. I live in the United States, studied as an undergraduate in religion and my graduate degree is in rabbinics. These past four weeks I have been participating in the super-intensive Palestinian Arabic program here in Al-Khalil.
From the time I applied for the program, I was warmly welcomed into Study Levantine Arabic School family. Planning my time here was easy and smooth, as were the directions for how to arrive at the school in the Eyn Sara neighborhood of Hebron. When I arrived over three weeks ago, I was greeted effusively by fellow students; clearly the school sets a culture of welcome and kindness for its students that is paradigmatic of the Palestinian culture of hospitality I have experienced in the past, but have experienced deeply and consistently these past few weeks.
My Arabic lessons were—as the program is called—super-intensive. My teacher, Duha, did a great job balancing between her lesson plans and the questions that my classmate and I had. Classes include grammar, speaking and listening, vocabulary, and writing exercises. The environment of the school is very positive and kind, a home away from home for those of us from abroad studying there and, it seems, for local Palestinian students who take part in the Center’s programs as well.
Most of my fellow students have been doing significant volunteer work, internships, or research, and it was clear that the administration of the school has made wonderful connections to people in the larger community in Al Khalil and beyond. Some of the wonderful experiences we had as a group were learning how to make stuffed grape leaves at the peak of the grape leaves season, being hosted by a large local family, who welcomed the entire foreign student body into their home for dinner, and seeing the old city and the Tomb of the Patriarchs/Ibrahimi Mosque with local high schoolers as our guides.
While I was here, I also traveled to Bethlehem and to Ramallah. While I had been to Bethlehem a few times before, this was my first time in Ramallah, and it was interesting and powerful to tour and compare the museums in each city. Some people ask about safety here in Hebron. Long before I arrived, I had a sense that I was being hosted by people who cared deeply about the safety of every student and volunteer and wanted to make sure I was always making good choices to be as safe as possible.
Walking around the city at various hours has been quite comfortable for me and part of the pleasure of living here has been the walk to and from our apartment, greeting and being greeted by various shopkeepers, kids in the neighborhood, and enjoying the sights and smells of street food—from pastries in the morning to corn at night. I suppose when I think about different places I have lived over the years, this feels like one of the safest. During this past month, I have spent most of my time in the City of Hebron and other cities, but the last time I was here, I enjoyed some time on the Palestinian Heritage Trail, which I highly recommend.
My time here now has been in the season of spring turning to summer, and while you can feel the intensity of the sun during much of the day, I have enjoyed noticing the contrast between the warmth of the day and the cooler nights, often with their gentle winds. The Palestinian hospitality I imagined before I arrived has been met and surpassed at every turn, from people taking an interest in me to cafes encouraging fellow students and me to park ourselves at a table, drink a frozen passion fruit drink or mint lemonade, and study (or relax) for hours. I am already sad that my time here is coming to an end soon, and I hope to return as a volunteer and, with the help of the Study Levantine Arabic School, inshallah, find ways to help support and strengthen Palestinian society.
